Options to prepare for engine removal

[baldilocks]

I'm ready to pull the 216 and install a 235 in my 49 3/4 ton. I've pulled a couple of engines over the years but this will be my first experience with an AD Chevy. The Chevy Truck Shop Manual calls for removing the hood followed by removing all bolts connecting the radiator support bracket to the fenders and frame crossmember, then removing the radiator and support bracket as a unit. Though not mentioned in the manual, the latch plate between the grill and radiator support bracket would also have to be removed.

I've run across a couple of articles describing removal of the fender to cowl bolts and the radiator support to crossmember bolts to facilitate pulling the entire front clip intact.

Anybody out there willing to share their suggestions on which is the choice of least resistance?

Thanks in advance,
Steve

[Deve]

Don't tell anybody, but I am basically a lazy person and I don't like to do extraneous work for no good reason. So, with that in mind, here is how I do it. I don't like pulling both engine and transmission at once. Since they need to be separated anyway, I do that first. Engine from transmission, all associated cables, wiring, springs, etc from under the truck. Then I remove the radiator just because it has a chance of being dinged in the process. I pull the fan because the best setup for a truck on the new 235 is Dave Folsom's waterpump adapter plate with a new (Airtex AW108N from rockauto.com) waterpump and the 216 fan is re-used in that setup. Don't want to bend it. Pull the hood at the hood bolts only leaving the hinges solidly in place so there are no adjustment issues. Then I use some hardened long Eyebolts like these: https://www.mcmaster.com/3014t972 and remove the 4 corner head bolts and screw them in for pulling out the engine. Do not wrap a chain around the manifold! They crack and are usually ruined when you do that. Besides, you will need the eyebolts to put the new engine back in. The engine comes right out with very little clearance issues that way. If you feel better, remove the waterpump and thermostat housing for extra clearance or just turn the engine a little sideways when bringing it out. You could remove the bellhousing and flywheel first too since you are moving it over to the new engine. That would make it easier, but not 100% necessary just less weight.

Removing the front clip will cause all sorts of adjustment problems. Unless your plan is to do some serious cleaning of the frame and front clip, the truck likes where it is right now. Now is a good time to look over the flywheel to see if you need to flip the ring gear around, replace the clutch, add a new pilot bearing to the new engine, etc. Sounds like fun!