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Tuning Up Your Old StoveBolt - Timing and Compression

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  • #16
    Ok ..I followed the instructions in http://devestechnet.com/Figures/enginetiming.pdf and the truck fired up first crank and keep firing right up !!! THANKS Great except .......

    When i pushed in the clutch ..screeeeeeech......... so I am thinking throw out bearing and or pilot bushing ... I moved it last fall with no noise and it is in heated shop .

    I have not taken out the transmission yet so do not know what size clutch I have [stock 1953 216 / 4 speed , Baltimore ] but where is a good source for parts , preferably a KIT..... I will try my locals of course....

    Thanks
    Dan

    PS . did you know that this page tells you you spelled wrong but "right click " does not spell check ?
    Last edited by Neverdone; 05-08-2016, 01:58 PM. Reason: To ad the 'PS"

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    • #17
      That document was more or less designed for when you first put the engine together after a rebuild, so that's probably why Jeff wrote it with the Distributor out. One advantage of taking out the distributor is that you can spin the oil pump to make sure you have good oil to the rocker assembly. Other than that, I have always changed or re gapped the points with the Distributor in.
      Deve Krehbiel
      devestechnet.com
      forums.devestechnet.com

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      • #18
        It would seem to me that spinning the oil pump would have been included in the "" Must do's "" as it can only be done with distributor out and would be a critical test ..I did
        not do this ....


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        • #19
          Really, it's not easy for most people to just pull the distributor. They worry they are going to affect the timing. But the Distributor is 360 degrees of a 720 degree cycle. So if you remember EXACTLY which direction the rotor is pointing, and put a mark on the lip of the distributor showing that, now you can just pull it out and if you put it back in the same way, nothing will be affected as long as you do not turn the motor. The cautions in doing that are..

          1) Get it all the way down when putting it back in. It is possible to have the rotor turning and there be no oil pressure. Mark the shaft where the vac advance meets and then make sure it is all the way down when reinstalling. Remove the distributor but leave the vac advance in place. (screw on the side in the back)

          2) Due to the cam gear that meets with the distributor gear, the rotor will turn away from your mark. Compensate for that by turning the rotor about 30 degrees clockwise, then it will go back 30 degrees when its fully down. Give or take.

          In the end, the rotor needs to be exactly where it was no matter where it is pointing as long as you didn't move the motor, life is good. Check oil pressure right away when starting.
          Deve Krehbiel
          devestechnet.com
          forums.devestechnet.com

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          • #20
            I was just saying that this could have been done before the distributor went in the first time ....does anyone stock clutch kits ??

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            • #21
              Jim Carter sells them. I haven't needed one in a long time but that is my best guess.
              Deve Krehbiel
              devestechnet.com
              forums.devestechnet.com

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