HELP with 1960 261 with pin in out position

[tahoe52deluxe]

Howdy Deve!
I have a 1960 261. I am in the process of getting it into the car and hope to get it running soon. The dowel/ pin is slightly below the surface of the block boss that surrounds it. I have read a few of the posts on your site and all the online articles and info I can find, as well as picking everyone's brain I have met! I have received and found so much conflicting information from knowledgeable people and read so many warnings that trying to push in the pin can possibly damage the block. In a reply to a post on here, you talk about punching in the pin on your motor for full pressure oil flow. The motor is out and now is the time to do what I need to do to get it into full flow mode if possible. You are the only person I've found with any experience doing this so I am hoping you can help answer some questions.
How likely is it that I will damage the block by punching the pin in? I've been told I could crack it.
What is the best strategy to punch it in?
Is there a way I will know if it is going to budge? How hard do I need to hit this thing to get it to move?
Should I leave it as is and just connect the two ports, or plug them?
Thanks in advance for any assistance!

[Deve]

For me, a 1958-1962 261 is wasted without going to full flow. The reason is, even if you decide to use a bypass filter, you can use it in conjunction with a full flow filter. The only concern (and why they do not make oil galleries with outside rubber hoses these days) is that once you put that dowel in, its IN and you have to connect the rear port to the front port ALWAYS even if through a filter. I would push it in, but of course its your choice. I have seen the same info you have on the concept of possibly cracking the block. BUT.. I have seen about 10 people who have been worried about this and did it anyway that was successful. Nobody I know was unsuccessful. I am not sure the danger exists if you do it right. Of course it is up to you to take the chance. I too felt this same concern and was torn on the idea. I used a very large ball peen hammer and a long 3/8" drift punch. You cant hit it hard enough to push it all the way in in one swipe. You must push it in 5/8" for it to give you full flow. Once its in, the front port will pump the oil out to the rear port. Until the oil reaches the rear port, there is no oiling taking place. Just be sure the drift punch is nice and in the middle of the 1/2" dowel and then give it a GOOD wrap with the hammer. Before you start, measure 5/8" up the shaft of the drift punch and put a piece of masking tape at that point so you know when to stop. BUT, like everything else, harmonic balancer, etc.. you WILL know when to stop because it behaves differently (solid on solid) when its all the way in.

The most accurate and definitive article on the 261 is on the web site here: http://devestechnet.com/Home/TheVenerable261

Once you have done this, you need to make a full flow filter system because the originals are very rare. I personally like the spin-on filter system and use a transdapt 1028 adapter for this. If you go with bypass AND full flow, get the transdapt that has two inlets/outlets for that purpose. http://devestechnet.com/Home/FullFlowOil Now if its going in a Car with side motor mounts, your choices on where to mount the adapter are limited. I would LOVE to have access to a car because I get so many requests for spin-on filter kits and so far, I havent been able to help much because all I know is trucks. Never even SEEN a vintage car up close. (I live in rural Kansas and not alot of vintage cars around here).

Whatever you do, tell us how it went!
Deve

[tahoe52deluxe]

Dave,
Thanks for the quick reply!! I would like to take advantage of the full flow possibilities of this motor, that’s why I bought it. When I bought it I was unaware of the oil pin though. So I have a few more questions for you. Would anything help the pin move more freely?😬
Would it be better to warm the engine prior to trying to drive in the pin? Or is a cold block better?
Maybe running it and having oil moving through the galleys would help?
Should I lay it on it’s side and try penetrating oil around the pin for a few days?
Having never seen inside a 261, What in particular could break?
Sorry for all the questions, I have been trying to figure this out for a while now and I want to get this thing running! Your site is amazing, so thanks for all the info and help!!! I’ll try to load a pic of my pin.
Thanks again!!

[tahoe52deluxe]

[Deve]

Since that area is being oiled from the inside all the time already, there is really nothing to do but just do it. Set the engine on a stable platform so the hammer action is not absorbed by it moving around on you, and just knock it in. No Guts, No Glory! Say a little prayer first if it makes you feel better. I can totally relate to your hesitation. I was very worried about it too. In the end, it was just another thing that was checked off the list. Be sure to use a 3/8" by about 10 or 12 inch drift punch. Something that has a 3/8" surface on a 1/2" dowel will ensure you are not causing it to wedge tighter. A 7/16" surface would be better, but I didnt have one. Yep, that's the culprit alright! I wouldnt worry about heating or cooling, or soaking. It just needs a hammer and a drift punch! Let us know how it goes!

[tahoe52deluxe]

Thanks again Deve!! The biggest punch I have is 3/8 but it's not 10-12" long. I have found a longer lengths online. I am looking for 7/16', What is the advantage to a 10-12 inch long punch? Would you recommend brass or steel?

[Deve]

Just having a stable punch that you can hold with a glove on your hand so you can give it a good hit is all that matters. Length isnt really that important. Steel is best. Brass would not be stable enough.

[mfahrbach]

Just a bystander, waiting a week now to hear whether the pin is in!!!!! If still looking for courage, I can tell you Deve helped me as well to go through with it, and all he said is on the money. Once it is done, big sigh of relief, and on to putting on your system. I have Fenton duals on my ‘58 261, and this totally changes how the hoses, or piping in my case, is done. So if you currently have a single exhaust manifold and you know it will stay that way, you are good to go, but if you are planning to switch to duals, read all that Deve says about the options for the routing and materials of a full flow system.

[tahoe52deluxe]

Woohooo!!!! I did it!
Thanks Deve for your help and advice!!! I finally found a 7/16" punch, marked 5/8" on the punch and decided to go for it. I had to switch to a small sledge hammer, none of my ball peens carried enough wallop. Finally got it to budge!! Sure as shit, it bottomed out right when I hit the 5/8" the mark. Maybe this will finally put to rest the fear of breaking the block.
On to building the trans mount and dressing the motor to prepare for fire up. You were dead on Deve!! Cant thank you enough!!

[Deve]

I'm glad for you. I remember the apprehension in doing that because I read you can crack the block. It just goes to show you how you need to take internet advice with a grain of salt. That comment on cracking the block could easily have been an offhanded comment someone made in overthinking what might happen. Now you have a full flow oiler. So understand from now on, the front outlet and the rear inlet MUST be joined together (even if through a filter. Oil now flows from the oil pump directly out of the front port and no oiling takes place until it reaches the rear port. Good luck!