GM 216 ci Harmonic Balancer

[josediaz311@gmail.com]

The 216ci engine installed on our 1948 3100 pickup truck has a harmonic balancer which looks like its configured for "crankhandle." Other than using a harmonic balance removal tool and or turning the electrically, we want to use two bolts threaded onto the balancer (and a cross bar) to enable us to rotate the crankshaft to for align the timing marks. Sound kind of wackie but enf=gine is installed and we do not have the means for removing teh engine.
Any ideas??

[Deve]

This is a common problem. You can either get a crank for it, sometimes they come available on ebay, or maybe Jerry Rivers (816)833-4414 can get you one, or do your crossbar thing. The 216 should not be hard to turn over using the fan belt if you remove the spark plugs (removes the compression you are working against).

[josediaz311@gmail.com]

Thanks for the prompt response. I'll look into the crank availability or use my cross bar method. Agree leaving teh spark plugs in would make it extremely hard to turn the crank. FOR YOUR INFORMATION we did a compression check and all cylinders were well within the 110 - 130 psi.

[JSMvintage]

So I have a similar issue with a 1960 261 engine that I recently acquired, the harmonic balancer does not have a front bolt head to turn the engine. I am trying to run cylinder leak test but not being able to turn the engine makes that difficult.

I tried Google and eBay searching for 261 Engine Crank, but all results were for Crank-shafts... not helpful. The center of the balancer has sort of a tear-drop center and it recessed into that, but don't think this is useful for turning the engine. I'm curious if the 2-bolt (typically used for pulling the balancer I'm assuming) and then a cross-bar is really effective... would prefer not to "torque" up my engine :-). I am curious how Chevy intended for this to be done, or did they just not use such techniques back in the day ?

Thanks for any feedback.

[Carryall '51]

I also have a 235 head on a 261 engine. I recently received the engine to find it had burnt valves. I have learned (from Deve's information) a person needs to drill access holes up through the bottom of the 235 head to match the water jacket in the 261 block. I assume this is why the valves were spent on my engine as they overheated because this wasn't done. I understand you need to machine through the bottom of the appropriate spots at a 12 degree angle from the port side. Can "ANYONE" help me with more information? I need more info to share with the machinist that will correct this issue on my 235 head? Any info will be greatly appreciated !

[Deve]

I made a tool for this for the 54-62 engines. Just a 3/4 inch round stock that I made a hex on one end for a socket and a round with a reverse keyway on the other about 4 inches long or so. It works, but this is a common problem.
http://devestechnet.com/Images/Resto...50b00403lg.jpg
http://devestechnet.com/Images/Resto...50b00404lg.jpg
http://devestechnet.com/Images/Resto...50b00405lg.jpg
http://devestechnet.com/Images/Resto...50b00402lg.jpg

[JSMvintage]

Interesting scheme, so the teardrop feature on the balancer was actually for something, on mine its worn enough I thought something was just damaged there. The picture of the device you made was too long for an in-truck solution but was this similar to the Chevy tool for this then that I'd be looking for ?

Could the two holes on opposite sides of center also be used, thought they were threaded but seems not... see picture.

I neglected to mention in my post that I purchased a1950 3100 truck with the 261 in it from a previous restoration, but its not running (has sat for a year or so unused apparently). Near Zero compression on #5 & 6 so assuming its a blown head gasket but wanting to do the leak test to verify before pulling the head.

[JSMvintage]

Front of balancer

[Deve]

It looks like its been beaten up pretty badly. They usually have two threaded holes. Its not a teardrop, its a round hole with a square keyway on a good one like the last picture above. If you end up removing the engine for a rebuild, I would have them machine the crank for a bolt to hold it on.

[JSMvintage]

Thanks for the reply. Indeed not sure why its in such bad shape, I guess when everything is running fine it won't matter. Not suppose to need a rebuild, but we'll see. I did find a tool that may fit the two holes and provide a nut to turn the engine, if it works out I'll post it along with the URL for it. Thanks

[JSMvintage]

Hi All,

So I finally found a solution for a manual engine crankshaft rotator (for maintenance, etc) and thought I'd get back to the forum and post what I found. My issue to recap was I had an engine in a 1950 truck already but the harmonic balancer input "slot" was damaged, so could not turn the engine manually the "usual" way. Someone suggested screwing 2 bolts in the 3/8 -16 in the balancer and using a pry bar or similar to turn the engine. Knowing me, that would have resulted in a trip to a Urgent Care Clinic, so I looked for (and found) a better solution. The solution I found was a Preform Crankshaft Rotation Adapter (66782) that has a 1" nut on the front for turning, available from numerous online stores for around $25. Making a paper template I found using 2 holes had close to the right separation and would have worked fine I think; however I did a little Dremel tool shaving to make a perfect fit.

The solution worked great. The adapter was skinny enough that I had little problem getting a breaker bar ratchet from Harbor Freight (ICON with flex head) on it. Turning was easy at this point.

Thanks for all the comments and suggestions, which ultimately lead down this path and the ability to run the tests I needed to. Seems I have a head that needs some machine work... but that's another thread :-).

Joe

[Deve]

Can you take a picture of it? Where did you get it? I am sure this is a good place for this kind of info. The pic would be nice to see the modification you had to make. Thanks!

[JSMvintage]

I did an attachment, but seems it didn't go. Try 2 (I just realized there seems to be 3 different ways to attach stuff, and they work differently... hopefully it works this time). My modification was minor and its currently on the truck as I'm needing to have the head worked on. I'll post a follow up picture once I get everything done showing the slight modification to it I did.