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This week is something people rarely encounter, but when they do, it's hard to solve...
If you ever need to put an electronic sensor into your water passage, this tip is for you. For many years now, companies that sell Electric Fan Kits for your engine or water temperature gauges have used Thermal Switches that go into the water stream. Generally they are 1/2" or 3/8" NPT and screw into a threaded hole somewhere. The problem is, with our 216/235/261 Engines there is only one such place to put that kind of sensor, on the driver's side Engine Head near the back. I have personally tested the Engines Drain Hole just below that Head solution and also by running a Tee connector at the Thermostat Housing and concluded that due to the Fan blowing cold air across those areas, the maximum temperature using an IR Thermometer was about 150 degrees. The Tee connector idea is the problem because the pipe is just long enough to cool the water down sufficiently to make it a bad idea. So what to do?
1) Get a waterpump like this one:
The one on the right is casting number 3757232. Of course this is a problem for us 47-55 owners because we require the short shaft pump. But if you can use it, that one is probably available through Rock Auto or somewhere like it.
2) Find a Thermostat Housing like this one:
This one has a casting number of 3757230 and is usually found on larger truck 261 engines. Since everything is in very close proximity to the flowing water, the cooling fan will not have time to cool it down and your Thermal Switch will work perfectly.
3) Get your radiator shop to drill a hole in the top tank of your radiator and fit a 3/8" Bung there to accommodate the Thermal Switch. Also, they make radiator hoses with metal sleeves that have this Bung already installed.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fl...FQiqaQod8D8IqA
4) Eliminate the entire issue and go with the more modern Thermistor Sensors that are available. These sensors come with a 3/8" Terminal Lug for bolting on to the Thermostat Housing. They work incredibly well by using the temperature of the housing to correlate the water temperature inside the engine. This technology has been solidly embraced by all the major players in the Automotive Industry. This of course requires the Kit that you purchase to have that capability. It is not just that easy to swap the sensor since the circuit needs to be designed for it.
You will find there is always a way to get there from here. Some ways are more elegant than others. The modern automotive grade Thermistor is really the best way to go. Ron Francis Wiring has a pricey solution that uses this technology here:
http://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=AR-88
The circuit is really easy to make yourself and the automotive grade thermistor used costs about $ .56 cents! Of course there is much more to it that makes it worth the money if you do not have the ability to design circuits, but one of these days I will put a schematic diagram up for everyone to solve that problem. Meanwhile, seeya next week!
If you ever need to put an electronic sensor into your water passage, this tip is for you. For many years now, companies that sell Electric Fan Kits for your engine or water temperature gauges have used Thermal Switches that go into the water stream. Generally they are 1/2" or 3/8" NPT and screw into a threaded hole somewhere. The problem is, with our 216/235/261 Engines there is only one such place to put that kind of sensor, on the driver's side Engine Head near the back. I have personally tested the Engines Drain Hole just below that Head solution and also by running a Tee connector at the Thermostat Housing and concluded that due to the Fan blowing cold air across those areas, the maximum temperature using an IR Thermometer was about 150 degrees. The Tee connector idea is the problem because the pipe is just long enough to cool the water down sufficiently to make it a bad idea. So what to do?
1) Get a waterpump like this one:
The one on the right is casting number 3757232. Of course this is a problem for us 47-55 owners because we require the short shaft pump. But if you can use it, that one is probably available through Rock Auto or somewhere like it.
2) Find a Thermostat Housing like this one:
This one has a casting number of 3757230 and is usually found on larger truck 261 engines. Since everything is in very close proximity to the flowing water, the cooling fan will not have time to cool it down and your Thermal Switch will work perfectly.
3) Get your radiator shop to drill a hole in the top tank of your radiator and fit a 3/8" Bung there to accommodate the Thermal Switch. Also, they make radiator hoses with metal sleeves that have this Bung already installed.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fl...FQiqaQod8D8IqA
4) Eliminate the entire issue and go with the more modern Thermistor Sensors that are available. These sensors come with a 3/8" Terminal Lug for bolting on to the Thermostat Housing. They work incredibly well by using the temperature of the housing to correlate the water temperature inside the engine. This technology has been solidly embraced by all the major players in the Automotive Industry. This of course requires the Kit that you purchase to have that capability. It is not just that easy to swap the sensor since the circuit needs to be designed for it.
You will find there is always a way to get there from here. Some ways are more elegant than others. The modern automotive grade Thermistor is really the best way to go. Ron Francis Wiring has a pricey solution that uses this technology here:
http://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=AR-88
The circuit is really easy to make yourself and the automotive grade thermistor used costs about $ .56 cents! Of course there is much more to it that makes it worth the money if you do not have the ability to design circuits, but one of these days I will put a schematic diagram up for everyone to solve that problem. Meanwhile, seeya next week!
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